Chengdu Rendezvous



CHENGDU RENDEZVOUS
PART 3: the places




(I suggest you begin with part 1... now don't be lazy!... just scroll down to part 1, your fingers could use the exercise. Thanks!)



I took over 500 pictures in Chengdu. Do you really think I'm going to post all 500 pictures here? By the time they finished loading, I'd be back home in the U.S. again and you could just look at them on my camera. But I can't just show 5 pictures. What to show? Oh, bloggers face opportunity costs too!




I have selected roughly 30 pictures as a representative sample of the things that I have seen in Chengdu. The pictures are not in chronological order. In fact, in general, they are in reverse order. It doesn't matter... this isn't a history textbook and nor are there any cause-effect relationships. This is Chengdu.






SICHUAN OPERA:


Opera performance includes 1) the singing/dancing/performing beauties 2) the guy who tells Sichuan jokes 3) a comedy act about the stereotyped hen-pecked Sichuan husband 4) a shadow play 5) the awaited "changing-mask" performance. Even though I don't understand the language, the body language of Sichuan opera is rich in meaning, so you can understand so much. Without a doubt, Sichuan Opera blows Beijing Opera out of the water.





Shadow Play





Hen-pecked husband and his shrew of a wife




The Sichuan beauties





Mao Statue in TianFu Square:


This statue of Mao has an interesting story. The devastating 2008 Sichuan Earthquake shook places from its epicenter to Chengdu and beyond. At the peak of the earthquakes power, this statue of Mao was wobbling left and right and so people standing in TianFu Square were surprised at what they thought was Mao waving at them!





East and West marry well in Chengdu







Hangin' at Du Fu's Crib


Du Fu is arguably China's most esteemed poet (Li Bai is the other contender in my opinion). Well here I am at Du Fu's thatched cottage in Chengdu, where as a destitute refugee during the turmoil of the mid-Tang dynasty he lived a life of poverty, tragedy, and poetic reflection. His greatest poems were written in the shade of this beautiful scenic spot. Du Fu's poems touch on natural themes but they also delve into social commentary and critique in a forceful way. You really get a feeling for the social stratification and upheaval, elitism, and the destitution of the mid-Tang crisis... and you get a glimpse into Du Fu's compassion and empathy. After visiting this place, Du Fu has earned himself a special place in my heart. Now in modern times, this site as much a park as it is a historic site. And who knows, as a refugee of the global financial crisis, perhaps you can escape like I have to the tranquil shade of Du Fu's home and write your own poem about the greed of certain Wall Street bankers who feast on bonuses while bankrupt families lose their homes. Or by the time the mortage crisis is over, maybe you'll build your own thatched cottage from which to write your poems... but even then this place is worth a visit because it is soooooo beautiful and peaceful!



Didn't I tell you Du Fu's place was beautiful?!
The ghost of Du Fu! He's haunting me because I dishonestly entered the park at half price under the guise of a student (in China, you can get in to all attraction for HALF PRICE if you are a student... luckily I brought my NIU Huskies Card... and luckily my diploma isn't tattooed on my forehead!) Anyways, Du Fu knows about my shady deed and pays my conscience a visit in this picture... reminding me that I am in this way no better than the Tang nobility who robbed and pillaged their countrymen in tough times. But Du Fu, NIU says I am a life-long learner, so doesn't that still make me a student?


WuHou Ci
This place is the Mecca of every Sanguo enthusiast, especially for the Shu fanboys (like me). I'm going to make a special blog entry about this place and Sanguo culture in the future, so I won't say too much at this time other than that I loved it. If you don't like history and Sanguo history in particular, forget about this place. If you are a Sanguo maniac, just tell the taxi driver to take you to WuHou Ci and try to contain the excitement on the journey.







Getting 'wet' in Sichuan
Everyone who knows me knows that I don't drink. I don't like the flavor of alcohol and I resist any attempt to get drunk. But if there were any place on this planet that could rope me into alcoholism, it is Sichuan Chengdu. Now, Chengdu has something of a reputation for being a party city. According to wikipidia, Chengdu has more drinking joints (bars and clubs) than Shanghai, whose population is significantly larger. Chengdu could easily be the Cancun of China if only it had a white sand beach. Party city! But home boy here don't play that game.

One night, however, we went to this bar here with Bo and his family and I had an amazing time. The bar was in the Sichuan style... small, intimate, and cozy; dimly lit inside by red paper lanterns; an elevated view above the street overlooking the canal and the central business district. How could I say no to a drink? or two...? We played a drinking game that is simple but too complicated to explain here. It was incredibly fun and addicting.

And Bo was so funny with his "si ge san?.... SI GE SAN?...... SI GE SAN????... okay, wu ge san" routine!!! I was in fact LMAO! Best times! Like I said, if there was any place that could make me a drinker, it is Chengdu with good friends. (and the scary thing is that I drank a fair amount of alcohol and felt absolutely no effect... who knows, maybe I'm some kind of booze-holding superstar who will never know his talent?!)

JINSHA EXCAVATION SITE
In 2001, the remains of an ancient society were discovered in the suburbs of Chengdu. After excavations, archaeologists realized that they had found a treasure trove of unique cultural relics from a snapshot in the record of the lives of people living in Sichuan 3,000 years ago. Only very recently, the site has opened to the public with exhibitions of what has been discovered. The museum shows not only what was found but how the relics were uncovered, protected, analyzed, and interpreted. As such, this museum shows us not only what archaeologists have found but also how they work and think. When I teach social studies in the U.S., I'll wish I had a museum like this to take my students to on a field trip.

Jinsha was truly an amazing find. On the one hand, some of the artifacts confirm what archaeologists have found at other sites about the cultures of the people at this time and place in history. Yet in addition, Jinsha provides new, new-before-seen pieces of culture. For example, picture below are square, bronze bi. Bi are very common items from ancient China, but bi are typically round and made of jade. Let me repeat, these bi from the Jinsha site are SQUARE and made of BRONZE. According to the exhibit, archaeologists have never seen anything like this. And these square, bronze bi are not the only items for which there is nothing else like it in the world. It appears that the people of Jinsha from 3,000 years ago had certain pieces of culture unique to their society... unique even from the people living at the same time just 50 some kilometers away.
WenShuYuan
I don't know much about this place. I will research it when I have time. I can say, however, that it is a center of Buddhist learning, research, reflection, and piety from perhaps the late Ming or early Qing dynasty. It is famous, but I don't know much about it at the moment. Even today, people still go here to pray, to show respect/humility, and to learn. Many people lit incense. We saw some monks. And we saw some women in plain clothes sweeping one of the courts... they were pious volunteers. It's a neat place and worth a visit.

JUST FOR FUN
I learned an incredible lesson... did you know that when you go to a place steeped in culture you do not HAVE to only visit the history places... you can do the fun things too? Yes, it's true! Oh, you already knew that? Well, I didn't. In Chengdu, we did some purely fun things too.

Bumper cars... and I learned a new word... pengpengche


Actually, this was fun AND educational since it was in fact part of the Jinsha exhibition described above. This is a 4-D theatre show. You watch the movie in 3-D and then you also feel the effects of what you are watching in the movie (hence the fourth dimension). The coolest parts? 1) After the snakes attack you, they flee and you then feel the sensation of a snake slithering beneath your bottom 2) a guy shoots you with an arrow as you run and you feel the powerful thud of an arrow in your back



Li and Bo play basketball... Li is the real player though. 两分, 两分, 两分, 两分,两分, 两分,两分, 两分,两分, 两分.... a never-ending string of two-pointers kept Li's game going well after Bo had finished. Sorry Bo, more practice!





In the capital of my beloved Shu kingdom, why not practice shooting with the crossbow? And do you think I could be as good as my namesake Zilong?






So here are the results. Now my first two shots... do you see those two arrows on the wall above the target? Yeah, those are mine. lol And the last two shots... do you see those two arrows in the bullseye? Yeah, those are mine. I guess you could say the attendant's lesson about how to shoot the crossbow made a difference!




Shopping in Chengdu

This is the "Old Town Chengdu" shopping district. So you can use your bank card in ancient-looking buildings.




Jinli shopping district... neat stuff representing traditional Chinese culture


For example, you can buy Sichuan embroidery at Jinli Street

And Zhang Fei hangs out at Jinli Street too!!!!



And there is this modern shopping district. I think Bo and Li finally agreed it is the 4th largest shopping district in China after Wangfujing in Beijing and Nanjing Lu in Shanghai and some place in Hong Kong. If you want to buy something... anything.... it's probably here.



And with all these places we went, how did we get there?! Well, Bo drives! Bo DRIVES IN CHINA!!!!! The thought of me driving a car in China freaks the soul out of my spine! But Bo does it calmly and carefully (best driver in China so far is Mr. Wang Bo, no contest). Thanks Bo!

So that is Chengdu. [sheds tear]

Chengdu Rendezvous Part 2

CHENGDU RENDEZVOUS:
Part 2: the food

Sichuan food is world-famous for its c o l o r f u l flavors. And isn't Chengdu the capital of Sichuan? So no surprises... Chengdu offers some of the best food on this planet.


A few notes:
  1. Nothing that I tasted was terribly spicy. In fact, I have yet to eat something in China that is more spicy than the spicy rice noodles from LaoBan MiXian in my small town (LaoBan MiXian's mixian will numb your tongue and lips with the force of your dentist's best novocaine!) So I can declare definitively that Sichuan DEFINITELY has plenty of delicious options for people who can't tolerate spicy food.
  2. Chengdu has cuisine from all over the world. If you want Western food, well my God they even have Papa Johns pizza. They have Japanese food, Cantonese food, Thai food, so on. You name it; Chengdu has it. I even saw a Tex-Mex restaurant!
  3. Better ask a local to help you... you will get so much more out of Chengdu's buffet!
  4. I am going to show you pictures of some of the food I ate. I will do a very poor job of labeling things because I have forgotten what most of it is called. Let's just say that I ate everything from noodles to pig's brain. And more dog meat... because it's really quite good when prepared and cooked right... sorry Fido, but you're delicious.

picture 1: Dim Sum = Cantonese food in Chengdu

Picture 2: rice noodles (?)

Picture 3: a special Sichuan noodle whose name I have forgotten but whose flavor I will always remember. These noodles are painted with a special blend of spices to make their flavor a combination of spicy and sweet. First spicy, then sweet... and the mouth is happy.
Picture 4: I forgot the name of every last one of these dishes. Dish A (upper left) and Dish B (upper center) are some kind of dumplings. I must say, Shaanxi dumplings are better than Sichuan dumplings. Dish C (upper right) ranks highly as one of my favorites. Dish D (lower right) is some kind of noodle, so you know I'm going to like it. Dish E (lower center) are some food stuffed in a pancake-like blanket. Not bad. And I don't even recognize Dish F. Looks like cucumbers but that cannot be right.
Picture 5: You don't even have to taste this to know it's going to be delicious!
Picture 6: Home-cooked meal with the entire extended family... more dishes added after this picture until the table had no room to put a single elbow. home-cooked meal = haochi jile! or as we say in Chengdu "basi! anyi!" or as we say in Shaanxi "liao za lie!" It seems every regional dialect in China is required to have its own unique way to say "Damn this food is good!"
Picture 7: Chengdu is famous for its teahouses. Here is a cup of simple tea at an elaborate teahouse where we are enjoying Sichuan Opera. Sip the night away!

Picture 8: A special kind of tea at another tea place... for the old foreigner the tea is a tad vexing, however, because some of the tea leaves float at the top like hopelessly dead fish. So when you get a mouthful a tea, you get a mouth fuller of tea leaves...yyyyuck... Naturally, there is a technique for drinking past the tea leaves, but I couldn't figure it out.
Picture 9: In my mind, Chengdu is MOST famous for its hotpot. Here is the table for Chengdu hotpot before all the magic begins.
Picture 10: And here is the table at a different hotpot restaurant featuring Chongqing hotpot. In this picture, the magic has begun. A thousand dishes of various items, oils, spices, sauces, a bubbling bath, and anxious chopstocks! I plan to write a special blog about hotpot in the future, so I'll hold off on writing the book about it here. Let it be concluded for now that the hotpot was BaSi... AnYi... Liao Za Lie... the bomb!

Chengdu Rendezvous part 1

THE CHENGDU RENDEZVOUS
PART 1: the people
I love traveling and visiting new places, but I hate being a tourist...the feeling of being an unfamiliar outsider. It's just something you have to put up with if you want to visit new places.
But none of that in Chengdu! I just spent 5 days in Chengdu with friends who made me feel as though Chengdu was my old hometown. That's why entry #1 about Chengdu has to be about the people who made it happen. Although my tongue danced with the best of Sichuan food and my eyes feasted on a buffet of amazing sights, the single-best thing about this short trip was the people with whom I spent it.

WANG BO
This trip to Chengdu is 2 years in the making and requires a brief introduction... which I'm going to turn into a very long and detailed introduction (lol). It all began in Professor Ryder's Chinese class at Northern Illinois University. In the Fall of 2005 we band of China-loving brothers (and sisters) took FLCH 101 and began to gel almost instantly. In a month, everyone in that class knew each other's name and had each other's phone number and were doing things together outside of class. In the Spring of 2006, a person named Wang Bo entered the class. He was fluent in Chinese and just wanted to take the class because it was an easy A. A lot of Chinese students do that. And most of them just coast through the class never really doing anything or talking to anyone... just collecting their A at the end of the semester. But Bo was different. Even on the first day before the first class had even begun, he talked and laughed with us all out in the hallway. Throughout the years, he helped us with our Chinese with the same care and skill as our teacher. And he did things with us outside of class. At that moment, FLCH was complete... we had Professor Ryder... we had Andrew... we had Mei.... we had Alex... we had Phil... we had Jonathan... we had Nhu... and now we had Wang Bo!
As a group, we did many things together. We spent an afternoon at the DeKalb Walmart... we spent a week in New York City! Why not go to China together? Well, that is the dream. Our dream is for everyone from that FLCH cohort to enjoy a meal together (preferably hot pot) in China. The first slice of that dream was realized last weekend when Bo and I met in Chengdu.
All that I need to say about Wang Bo is expressed in this picture of him cracking a laughing smile as he devotes incense to the Gods. And even Buddha is probably laughing... because when Bo laughs everyone laughs! And that's why everyone loves Wang Bo!

Wang Bo

THE CHENGDU CREW
Bo introduced me to many of his friends from middle school. But most of our time was spent with two friends in particular: Li and LaMei (whom due to my poor control of tones I once pronounced incorrectly to effect of calling her a "spicy mama!"). They both have great senses of humor, deep kindness and generosity, and bottomless patience. Li was our expert guide. He planned all the attractions and had the tireless job of being the "you guai, zuo guai, you guai, zhi zou, you guai" guy. And LaMei tried again... and again... to help me speak in Chinese (oh how I suck!).
from left to right
LaMei, Aaron the Red-Faced LaoWai, Wang Bo, Li
THE FAM
In my stay in Chengdu, I really got to know Bo's family. I stayed at Bo's house and we ate dinner with his aunts, uncles, cousins, and grandparents each night. Now I have eaten dinner and stayed the night with many of my students' families before, but this experience with Bo's family was different. Despite the language barrier, I definitely felt a sense of bonding.
The best thing about Bo's family, I think, is their sense of humor. I love when people laugh and enjoy laughing. Bo's mom is especially funny.
from left to right
Uncle, Aunt, Mom, Bo, Zilong, LaMei, Li, Cousin
The only bad thing about spending the time in Chengdu with Bo, his friends, and his family is that I felt like such a burden. They all went to incredible lengths to host me!... Instead of feeling guilty, I will feel grateful.

a Christmas to Remember!

I just want to quickly update the blog to tell you all about my very special Christmas. It's no longer Christmas here, but it's still Christmas over there in the U.S. as of the writing of this blog, so perhaps this entry will add a little more joy to your holiday.

Well, just like on Thanksgiving, I was especially busy today. I had all of my four regular classes. In addition, I had to teach 4 more classes to make up for some of the classes that I missed while I was in Chengdu (I will tell you about Chengdu in future blog entries). I ended up teaching only 2 extra classes, though, because the other 2 classes were taking an exam. So in total I taught 6 classes today...

Like any teachoholic, I prefer this. I like to be in the classroom. And on Christmas Day in a foreign country, when your alternative is spending the special holiday in the company of your apartment walls, the classroom is the right place to be.

So today was a day of numerous "Merry Christmas!"s, "Happy New Year!"s, and "Happy birthday, I mean, Happy Christmas Day!"

Some of the classroom had prepared special surprises for me. One class gave me a gift... an apple with the words "Merry Christmas" and "Happy Holidays" [both written in Chinese] STAPLED into the apple in the fashion of a piece of contemporary artwork fit for the Guggenheim. One class sang jingle bells as I entered... another class sang a "happy new years" song... another class had decorated the back chalkboard with a special Christmas mural and message. There's a photo of this below. I'm standing with the artist (in bright pink) and her deskmate:


And yes, that's a Santa hat on my head... I get goofy with it sometimes...


I also began to prepare for the evening Christmas party. I and 20 selected students would wile the night away... err, I mean, linger over a 40 minute slice of their self study time... eating,talking, and laughing together.

Here's all the food we had... apples, pears, cakes, cookies, crackers, muffins, candy, bananas, peanuts, oranges, some other weird nuts/fruits, Cola, strawberry yogurt milk, walnut yogurt milk, and a GIANT cake from the school that said "Merry Christmas" and had a funny looking Santa Claus perched on top... a LOT of food!


Group photo!




One of the students wore a Santa Claus outfit... I love these kids!




Throughout the day, students and teachers gave me gifts. Here is the collection. I love these people!





The best gifts of all, however, were the letters that students wrote to me. Let me share three of them:
(I have copied them exactly as they are written)
Mr. Peterson.
Uh.... I just know I'm happy with your teaching and I hope that somedays I can help people as much as you do.
A merry Christmas to you.
Class 4
Dear Mr. Peter Son,
Happy Christmas!
I'd like to thank you for teaching all of us Grrade 1 so much English knowledge. Thank you for giving our class 1 so much special care as well.
I am a common student from a poor village in China. When I was in primary school in Grade 5, I became interested in English and foreign countries' culture. I am so interested at it that I studied English hard in order to go aboard by myself. But the resources in our village is very poor. At that time, I only learned English by reading and listening. I had never talked! So my English grow up slowly. I have thought that my dream couldn't come true.
Since I met you, things have change a lot. You helped us on many ways. I have had a lot of chances to talk, my English improved rapidly.
Though you are from America while I am from China I never regard you as a foreigner as most people do. As I see, you are my friend. You help me in English whenever I want. Thank you!
America and China became friends in 1979. They have been friends for 29 years this year. People in two countries become familier with each other. They also built good friendship with each other. I am very pround of it. I hope our friendship between two countries will be forever so both of two countries can develop in a healthy way. Also I welcome more and more people like you come to China.
In a word, I hope you will be happy all your life.
Happy Christmas!
Yours Faithfully
[name]
Dear Mr. Peters<3n.
I know that the Christmas is equal to our New Year. So you can't enjoy it with your family members or your friends is a big pity. But you're not alone, our school mates and teachers all very love you. We think you are a nice person and you're very firendly to us, you're warm-hearted as well.
Every week, after take your lessons, we often can learn a lot. And I love your games very much, you're also a good friend to us. From your game, I think you're very intelligent.
I'm also thanksful to you because of you offer help me correct my compositions. With your help, my writing skills make a great progress now. You're also very humorous often make the class active. We really like to listen to you tell stories and take lessons for us.
To be honest, I was used to be very shy when talking to foreigners. But now I have already don't afraid to speak English in public. So I'm very thankful to you.
And I think you just come to China by yourself, the spirit is deserved to admire. And if I have a chance to go to foreign countries when I grow up, I may learn you to go there by myself, I think it may be very exciting.
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year ! ! ! I hope you can enjoy this journey of came to China. And I wish you Happy F<3rever.
Best wish for y<3u.
[name]

Well, that was my Christmas, folks. Let me end by wishing joy to the world, to everyone everywhere... I have certainly had mine today... :-)






finding Christmas spirit in HuaiYa

Dec' the Walls with Rolls of TP
fa la la la la la la la la
finding CHRISTMAS in

We really go all out for our big holidays, don't we? We don't just celebrate Independence Day with a nod and a wink to our foundations... oh no... we come together as a community to eat and enjoy expensive but impressive displays of fireworks. It's special. For Thanksgiving, we give ourselves plenty of time off to travel great distances to be together with family(s) to watch football and movies together, to do the insane Black Friday shopping together, and of course to eat the most splendid meal of the year together. It's special. And we really jump off the deep end at Halloween. Our neighborhoods and our children are transformed into the imaginative pluckings of our fantasies and nightmares. It's special. And then there is Christmas, a holiday season that is an ocean of culture wider and deeper than the Pacific.
Christmas has....
  • Christmas music
  • Christmas cookies
  • Christmas cards
  • Christmas lights
  • Christmas decorations
  • the Christmas tree
  • Christmas gifts
  • Christmas food and drinks
  • Christmas dinner
  • Christmas games and activities (Gingerbread house, etc.)
  • Christmas movies
  • the sacred and treasured Christmas snow (the only time we enjoy snow)
  • the Christmas characters (Santa)
  • the Christmas spirituality
  • Christmas charity and volunteerism
  • Christmas shopping
  • Christmas greetings

So I'm in China, ya know. China has an emerging Christmas culture. Most people know about it. More and more people celebrate it (at least the Santa Claus part). How much of the above Christmas culture am I able to find here?

  1. Christmas music: check. I have been listening to Christmas music via Youtube since about September. And now it's on regular rotation at that foreigner's flat.
  2. Christmas cookies: no... no oven... no dough.... no knowledge of how to bake
  3. Christmas cards: check... thanks to the Fam and FedEx ;-)
  4. Christmas tree: check... thanks to the foreign teachers before me
  5. Christmas food and drinks: no... but there is this walnut flavored milk that tastes enough like Egg Nog to give me the special feeling
  6. Christmas movies: yes and no... no, I haven't found... but yes because this is China, the piracy capital of the world where even the rarest movies can be found and purchased for less than $1
  7. snow: that's a no
  8. Christmas characters: Santa is everywhere, but they don't know him by that name... he is called ChristmasMan in Chinese... or Old Man Christmas.
  9. Christmas spirituality: no Christian church in HuaiYa, but it's okay. Mariah Carey sings O! Holy Night to remind me of the message.
  10. Charity and volunteerism: No Salvation Army bells at any of the supermarkets... so this is a no
  11. Christmas shopping: oh there is mad shopping of the kind you witness on Black Friday and Christmas Eve... but no one is shopping for Red-Ryder BB guns, hippopotamusses, or other random things. Just your day-to-day shopping.
  12. Christmas greetings: no, not yet at least.... same old "hello? I'm fine thank you, and you?"
  13. [skip 13 because it's unlucky]
  14. And then, finally, there are the Christmas decorations. I have really gone to great lengths to make this happen, partly for myself and partly for the students who come to my flat each night for English Corner. Yes, there is TP... toilet paper "snow" and toilet paper snowmen. But then there are professional decorations too. Every other supermarket has a random assortment of Christmas decorations (minus Christmas lights... they never have Christmas lights... luckily Xi'an at long last delivered those). With what the other foreign teachers had left and what I have purchased since, the Christmas collection is now sufficient, I think, to say that my apartment is Dec'd for Christmas. Have a look see here:

The Christmas Tree

a TP snowman

Snowflakes hang from the ceiling to make it look like it is snowing in the living room... nice effect that the camera does not capture well

Christmas lights in the patio windows... but this particular string fizzled out after 2 days

remix: Santa Claus is coming to HuaiYa

that Christmas Glow warms the apartment

Silent Night... Holy Night... all is Calm...

So, have I found Christmas in HuaiYa?

You tell me!