Kiwi Stories

Warning: This entry attempts to blend personal experience with social analysis of a complicated historical revolution that is still unfolding. The resulting commentary is certainly oversimplified and perhaps awkward, confusing, and/or boring. Read at your own risk!

Kiwis: the answer to all questions




Story 1: China Rising
Where is the China our parents had always told us about? Where are the starving children who would be thrilled to eat the ungodly brusselsprouts we left cold on our plates? I have not yet met a person here in China who appeared starving... and certainly none so desperate to brave brusselsprouts! Famine seems impossible in China. Everywhere I have been, there is more than enough food. Everywhere I have been, I witness how prosperity and modernity are trickling into all corners of Chinese society. China likes to imagine itself as a dragon, but I see a different metaphor... China is the Phooenix that has in three decades emerged from the ashes of economic poverty rising quickly and flying higher-ever-higher. How did this happen?



The kiwi. The kiwi delivered it all. For all the skyscrapers, the new cars, the computers in farmers' homes, and certainly the generation without famine... the kiwi... we can credit it all to the kiwi.



Story 2: the reoccuring kiwi conversation
In all the combined moments of my entire life, I have never thought about the kiwi as much as I have this week. And it was certainly not by my choice. In fact, I hate kiwis. They are ugly on the outside... mushy to chew... and the little back seeds are disturbing (they remind me of larval knats suspended in green goo). If I had any control over the matter, I would never put myself in a corner to have to think so much about this quirky fruit. [Enter fate...]



Monday: I was eating lunch with some students in the student dining hall. Inevitably, our conversation began with the question, "Do you like Chinese food?" Twistedly, it turned to the mystery fruit.

Student: "Do you like that fruit... mmm... what's it called?... nihoutao... do you know it?"
Me:Blank stare.
Student: "Uhhhh, it has green meat."
Me: Green eggs and ham? No... that's can't be it...
Student: "It has hair."
Me: Fruit with green meat and hair.... ooooh... KIWI!
Student: "YES! Kiwi! Do you like it?"
Me: No, not really. Let's change the conversation.



Wednesday: I was chatting with a Chinese teacher on the school track. Again, as is always the circumstance, we were talking about food. Started talking about Sichuan hotpot... next pineapple... and then, "Do you know the fruit that is small, green, and has hair?" Oh yeah, that would be the kiwi. The guessing game cut down to an impressive 5 seconds... nice! We then continued to have a five-minute discussion about how expensive and nutritious kiwis are. Ultimately, it didn't sway me from my dislike of the fuzzy fruit, but it did make me wonder... why so much talk about kiwis all of a sudden?!


Saturday: I went to visit a student's family in Changxing Town over the weekend. On Saturday morning, she invited me to visit her family's field to see the "special vegetable that only grows in Mei County." Sounds interesting... let's go see this mystery vegetable!



entrance to the Liu family plot




We arrive and there it is again... the kiwi!!!!!!!


corrections:
*the kiwi is not a vegetable
*kiwis do not only grow in Mei County




I have learned an important lesson: "kiwi" is the answer to all questions! In all seriousness, though, what is the kiwi trying to tell me?


The Kiwi Connection


Story 2 (cont'd)
Long before the surprise that the mystery "vegetable" was the kiwi, I was initially surprised that my student's family had a field. My assumptions had clouded my judgement. I knew that her father was a truck driver. I knew that her mother was a street vendor. I also knew that her family was relatively poor. How could they afford the land? How could they afford the time to plant anything? How do they live in town if they own land and cultivate crops?

Well, a few clarifications were in order.

1)The land is not far away... not in the distant fields... their plot of land is in the town! Not more than five minutes away from their home. Little plots of land sprawl in a variety of places in Changxing Town.

2)My student informed me that the land was in fact FREE. "All people are given free land by the government," she told me. All people? All people in China? All people in Changxing Town? I never did get a clear answer. Who knows.

3) They do not own the land. There are no property rights (I should have known better). They only own whatever they produce from the land. In addition, they own the right to rent or sell their land for cultivation by others. The land is provided free, but they do not own it. The government may come at any time to grant the land to other enterprises for housing, commerce, roads, mining, larger-scale agriculture, etc. In such a case, the people will be compensated by whoever has successfully petitioned to use the land for any of the above designated purposes.

4) The family dabbles in such a wide variety of economic activities BECAUSE OF this situation. In other words, because their plot of land is so small and because it can be taken away at any time, they are prudent to dive into other industries. And this is why you will see people who not only harvest corn but also sell coca cola... people who not only harvest cabbage and red peppers but also sell noodles and operate a laundry 7 days a week... people who not only harvest kiwis but also drive trucks and sell food at night. Venture capitalists by circumstance.


Little plots of land all over Changxing Town... offered FREE by the government to the people of the town... they own the right to anything harvested from the land... you can see a variety of crops planted. You can also see the path to the Liu Family plot to the right of the photo.


The Liu Family plot and it's kiwis... do you see all the kiwis in the trees? do you see all the crates already filled to the brim? There 8,000 kiwis ripe to juice the Chinese economy!


On this one small plot of land, there were 8,000 kiwis. Recalling my conversation with the teacher about how expensive kiwis are, I realized that this small plot of land was certainly worth something. No wonder this humble family had a computer, a cell phone, and enough jiaozi to stuff my stomach to its limits!


And everywhere I looked, I saw this plot of land and its kiwi fruits prompting more commerce. The family could not harvest the 8,000 kiwis alone. There were a half-dozen helpers... labor paid in paper or personal currency, but currency nevertheless. And then there was a man sitting in the shade of the kiwi grove scribbling notes into his little book. This man was watching the harvest because he had arranged to purchase it... a middleman... more money flowing. We followed the kiwis back to the middleman's warehouse. More laborers helping transport, unload, and pack the kiwis.... more money flowing. We were standing there for no more than 10 minutes--no lie--and two young men approached the warehouse looking for the boss. They were strolling about Changxing Town on a mission from somewhere in Sichuan Province... they were interested in buying the kiwis... for sale in Sichuan or perhaps for sale all over Chna. Was the entire economy of China flowing through Changxing Town? .... was the entire economy of China springing from this small plot of kiwis cultivated by the Liu Family?



Story 1 (cont'd)
I don't care what my many Chinese friends say; Mao Zedong devastated China. He rescued China from a condition of anguish perpetuated by his predecessors only to drag it through the mud for a few more decades under his own regime. His successor Deng Xiaoping, however, brought China a genuine Great Leap Forward. China is still leaping... many thanks to Comrade Xiaoping!


Deng Xiaoping initiated a series of critical reforms to Mao's brand of socialism. And the first of his "Four Modernizations" concentrated on agriculture. No longer would people plant, cultivate, and harvest only what they were told... no longer would they surrender the yields of their labor to the community. With Deng Xiaoping's reforms, although property rights still belonged to the state, farmers everywhere began again to own the consequences of their economic decisions. They did not own the land, but they did own what they could do with the land. Inevitably, some farmers abandoned rice, wheat, corn, and other staples... perhaps they planted cash crops... like kiwis, for example...


What happened? All kiwis and no rice? A famine? Not at all! There was more food than before. And farmers' incomes began to rise. How is this possible? Well, in fact, farmers continued to plant and harvest the staples. But they worked extra to plant the cash crops. They made decisions based on comparative advantage (after all, some plots of land, soils, climates, and local cultures of expertise are best suited to cultivate kiwis, for example) and had personal-profit incentives to work extra (listen to the economic engines roar!). The result was so predictable... more food... more money.


As a cash crop, Kiwis are an excellent symbol of the decisions that farmers made... and of the solid and far-reaching success of those decisions. And then the dominoes of Mao's ideological fortress of socialism began to fall... if the first of Deng Xiaoping's "Four Modernizations" could be this successful, why not give the other three a try? If market forces in agriculture eliminated hunger and put money in the pocket, perhaps market forces in other industries could deliver the same promise?


Indeed they did. The kiwi has awakened the sleeping dragon. They kiwi has nourished the rising phoenix.


(And I have discovered a new appreciation for the "green meat," "hairy" fruit... but I still won't eat the things!)

Supplementary commentary: This entry exhibits a strong confidence in the market system... and this confidence is unshaken even by the wave of events currently smashing economies all over the world. The relevant conversation now focuses on the vulnerabilities of the market system and the need for more regulation. This is a useful and necessary conversation. Yet in my own contribution to the dialogue, I continue to advocate for the market system.

Regulation is a short-term fix. If regulations are appropriate and minimal, they can work quite well. If they are excessive or over-burdensome, however, they do more damage than the unbridled wild markets could ever dream to do. There is a fine line that separates these two categories of regulation... and in many cases "unintended consequences" come with crossing that line. Shall we take the risk?

In response to the housing and credit market crises, policymakers are understandably getting involved. As I said, a little involvement can be beneficial, but too much can be devastating. U.S. policies should remember the lesson of the kiwi... ultimately, let people own the consequences of their economic decisions. In the long run, they will make the best decisions. If you regulate the finance and/or housing markets too much, you limit their future potential or set them on a track to make alternative mistakes in the future. If you bail out the banks and the homeowners, you strip them of the consequences that would inform future decisions... you set up these people to repeat the mistakes.

Don't force people to plant kiwis, let them plant kiwis themselves. And let people reap what they sow! The harvests will be much better, I guarantee you!

Halloween in HuaiYa

I love Halloween. I only begrudgingly acknowledge that Halloween is not quite the equal of Thanksgiving and Christmas. It falls just a little short. But of course Halloween is leagues ahead of the next dearest holidays--Easter and 4th-o-July.





Well it is October, friends! And my motto is that if you wait until the 31st to celebrate Halloween, you're only eating the cherry on the hot fudge sundae... so all month I have been revelling in the universe of all things Halloween!





But where is Halloween in China? Where is Halloween in HuaiYa?! Not a trace of it! Autumn colors? No... the skies are rarely blue in the shadow of Mount TaiBai... and the leaves are still green or blandly yellow. And where are the pumpkins? HuaiYa doesn't have any... and if it did have some, they'd be these unrecognizably puny orange things... not pumpkins worthy of the masterful jack-o-lantern. Even my students have only vague ideas about what Halloween is and how we celebrate it in the West. It's ripe time to bring Halloween to HuaiYa!


Every Halloween must come with plenty of horror movies. I watched Saw IV last week, and it hit the spot more-or-less (where did I find Saw IV in China, you ask?... well you can read all about my adventures in the criminal activity of plundering honest artists of their intellectual property rights in a previous entry). In subsequent weeks, I have relied on Youtube to nourish the horror cravings. It works.


Then this week I thought of some ways to decorate my apartment. I went to the local fruit vendors searching for pumpkins, found none, and settled on oranges. They're round. They're orange. They're 1 kuai a jin... what have I got to lose? With a little sharpie work, I transformed them into makeshift jack-o-lanterns. Next, I bought up all the toilet paper in HuaiYa (not really). Within a couple hours, my flat was haunted with a hundred TP spirits!








TP Ghosts and orange-fruit jack-o-lanters haunt my flat.



















One of the teachers visited my apartment the other afternoon and was a little surprised by the decorations. She didn't say whether she liked them or not... she only said that she had never seen anyone decorate for Halloween before. Yes!... this is exactly the problem! And I'm going to change that. As HuaiYa's self-designated Missionary of Halloween, I and my brain have stormed about methods for bringing the holiday into the classroom.





This week I created a lesson that taught my students the importance of being scared during Halloween. I showed them a brief but tension-loaded video clip from the movie Return of the Living Dead, and it worked as if by magic. They were gasping... closing their eyes... huddling together (male students included) ... some of the students even begged me to stop the video! Frightened students; happy teacher! Then we played a game (er, activity) that mixed monster vocabulary, speaking and listening practice, and "survival horror." Despite some issues with following directions, this game also went smoothly. In fact, at the end of my career here, I'm sure this activity will go down as one of the classics. For classes that played the game well and had time to spare, I rewarded them with a video clip from a haunted house and a video clip from a haunted hayride. In this way, these discovered that we crazy Westerners have invented MANY ways to scare ourselves in October. And to reinforce the point, throughout the lesson I tossed in the occasional "boo!" moments to shock-scare unsuspecting students... I swear, it was more fun than a human should legally be allowed to have!!!



And to cap it all off, one of my shy students today approached me this week to tell me how much he enjoys my class... that his other classes put him to sleep. Oh yeah son, now we're cookin' with gas!





Next week, we will have a more serious and textbook-oriented lesson, but there's no reason I can't keep the Halloween theme alive... especially during the most exciting week in October! I have used the other half of HuaiYa's supply of toilet paper to make "trick-or-treat ghosts." In each ghost is wrapped a surprise... a treat or a trick. Most ghost are treats with an assortment of candy options. Some are filled with less desireable--dare I say boring--treats, like peanuts or sunflower seeds. And some are filled with "tricks"... empty candy wrappers... rice... some have nothing in them. I intend to use these ghosts not only as ambassadors of Halloween but also as motivation... the surprise alone should encourage more students to participate. We'll see.


They're easy to make. You just wrap some item in toilet paper--securing it and twisting it until it looks like a ghost. A small piece of tape seals the little buggers. I have made a wide assortment of these things... tall ghosts and short ghosts; fat ghosts and skinny ghosts; heavy ghosts and light ghosts; angry ghosts and sad ghosts. A good blend of unpredictabiity to increase the surprise factor. As I say, they are easy to make... which is a necessary consideration when you have +/-1,200 students!


These are the "trick-or-treat ghosts"... 3 down, at least 157 more to go..



A missionaries work is hard, but he's glad to do it. In the name of bringing Halloween to HuaiYa, it is all worth it!... let's just hope he's not burnt out for Thanksgiving and Christmas...

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!

UPDATE: Some of my students tell me there is a haunted house in nearby Xi'an. What I cannot decipher is whether they intend to say that there is a haunted house of the style we visit in the weeks approaching Halloween or that it is a haunted house that is genuinely "haunted" by some ghost or spirit. If I can only nail down the details and confirm this haunted house's whereabouts, I will be on the next bus to Xi'an--that's a promise.

my birthday

一九八四年十月二十二号
二〇〇八年十月二十二号


So today is my birthday... so.... now when people ask me how old I am (cuz it's one of their favorite questions right up there next to "are you married with children?"), I can tell them 二十四岁!.... they will be confused.... up to yesterday I was telling everyone 二十三岁。Maybe I won't be 太年青了 ("so young!") anymore?



Only funny story is that I bought myself a small birthday cake in the student's dining hall today, and one of my student's inferred that it was my birthday. She and all her friends then searched wildly for something on the spot that they could give me as a birthday present... an apple... one of the students offered me her apple. Another student then sang "happy birthday" to me. It was very nice. And the cake was delicious too.



It was a simple birthday... just the way I like it...



This was my birthday cake! It was the last one they had, and I was a little reluctant to purchase because it looked so goofy, but on closer inspection I think this little cake was a sign of good fortune. I am not quite sure what those decorations are... the ears suggest two dogs. But everything else suggests that they are mice. If they are in fact mice, it would be very fitting. I was born in the year of the rat... and 2008 happens to be the year of the rat... the "double double" decorations (two hearts and two creatures) parallel this double coincidence. So in the interest of superstition and wishing myself luck on my birthday, I am going to conclude that these decorations are mice.





UPDATE:Zhang Laoshi, my Chinese professor at NIU, has informed me that these are "ke ai gou"... 'cute dogs'... so much for luck! :-P

the storm

Pushed up against the Qinling Mountains, the storm clouds unleash their fury on the plains downhill. Trees wisely swap with the streaming of their outbursts


Few things excite me as much as a furious thunderstorm. The best thunderstorms awe the senses with a frenzied assault of wind, rain, lightning, and thunder. The best thunderstorms can wake you from the deepest sleep.


Last night, a storm of this caliber attacked HuaiYa. The intensity of my encounter with the storm was magnified, however, by the near-rickety conditions of my apartment windows. Previous storms had alerted me to the vulnerabilities of my windows. Water and wind invade easily even during the tamest storms. But last night, it was blitzkrieg!
Jostled from sleep, I didn't know what I was hearing... an orchestra of demons whistling, howling, and screeching by my bedside? ... no, it was just my windows... two of which I had left open. I rushed to close them, but the darkness of the night, the turmoil of the moment, and the senselessness of the contraption that is my windows compounded to thoroughly confuse me. Who knows how long I stood there fidgeting with those windows... frequently opening them even wider... inviting the storm into my kitchen with each trial. Come on in!
Eventually I closed the windows. Before returning to bed, I paused to appreciate the storm... the might of nature is usually hidden in the subtleties of the universe; only too rarely is it on widescreen display.
By morning, the storm had retreated, but remnants of its presence remained. Rain still fell from the lingering clouds that loomed in the sky. A steady stream of wind still pushed hard against the forest of umbrellas that rushed to breakfast. And nothing worked! The electricity was out. The internet was out. The water was out. How long would these casualties last?
As it turns out, we only had to eat breakfast by candlelight; the utilities returned this morning. The electricity and internet were back by about 9:00am, I estimate. The water staggered back a few hours later. Either the storm wasn't so bad, or service in China is a-okay!

The storm left a blanket of leaves and a smattering of sheeting from this shelter all across campus. You can see its missing some of its roof.

in the pirate's cove


"NO COPY ALLOWED"... the pirates don't want to be out-pirated

How does the entertainment-hungry, anti-piracy advocate survive in China? Well, this one is taking a short vacation from morality.

In the US, I am a solid opponent of all that is pirated, bootleg, and "shared." I believe that people who want to enjoy high-quality movies, music, and video games should be willing to pay for them. Coming to China, I knew I was entering the pirates' cove of the world; on the streets of China, all movie are loot. But I did not anticipate any need to join the plundering. I never thought I would have the need to watch movies in China. After all, I am rather busy here, and there is so much else to do.

But then last week I was watching the CCTV-9 news, and fate brought to my attention a segment on the blockbuster movies of 2008 in China. The segment struck gold... there were two recently-released movies featuring the 三国 (Three Kingdoms) period of Chinese history... the SanGuo period is one of my obsessions. My heart was racing with excitement. I knew these movies would be at the local bootleg store... and I couldn't wait even the night to find and watch them, muchless a YEAR to obtain and watch them legally! Goodbye to morality; hello to two and a half hours of Zhuge Liang cleaning house!!!!

I anticipate my return to the home-sweet-home of morality sometime in February after the second part of this epic film is released... ;-)

Now don't go pointing fingers... in the pirate's cove, there simply isn't a market for anything legal! I have to survive, don't I?

The pirate's cove is a fascinating place. I've learned a lot about it from my one trip to the DVD store... and from the massive collection of illegal DVDs left by other foreign teachers who lived in my apartment before me. On the one hand, this pirate's haven is a world of excesses. You buy one DVD, and it may contain as many as 16 movies on one disc... for a mere 10 kuai... I spend about as much to buy a bag of peanuts! And the collection of movies is so random... all on one disc there is the SanGuo movie for the history buff,; the ever-charming Kung Fu Panda for the kids; and all the bloods, guts, and gore of Saw IV for the homicidal psycho in the family.


Look at all the movies on one disc!!! I just wanted ChiBi, but the pirates have thrown in a little bit of Kung Fu Panda, Iron Man, some unknown Indian Bollywood movie, Saw III which is actually Saw IV... in case the one movie I actually want to see doesn't play, then at least there are 15 other movies from a wide variety of genres that I can watch and enjoy?!


It is also, however, a world where the theft does not end with the illegal filming and distribution of the movie. In a kind of ironic twist of karma, you the consumer are often left feeling robbed and cheated. When you pick up a Chinese-language DVD that promises English subtitles; it may in fact be only Chinese. When you pick up a DVD and it promises to have the movie Golden Compass, it may in fact have Golden Compass with the camera pointed at only half the screen the entire movie (the other half is the ceiling of the theatre). When you pick up a DVD that promises to have the movie Rambo, it may in fact have the movie Rambo with the bootleging company's logo and advertisement plastered all over the screen for the entire movie. When you pick up the DVD that promises to have the movie There Will Be Blood, it may in fact have a copy of There Will Be Blood that freezes, skips, whizzes noisily, or doesn't play at all in the DVD player. When you buy a DVD that promises to have the movie Saw III, it may in fact have Saw IV... or it may in fact have some random Russian movie with neither English nor Chinese nor anything to motivate you to watch it all.

It's a case of "You get what you pay for" with a fun twist... in the pirate's cove you have no idea what you get; all you know is that you pay practically nothing for the surprise (and sometimes the surprise is good... in my case, I in fact had not yet seen Saw IV and so was pleasantly surprised that the DVD had lied to me).


Now, to return to the beginning, I have watched my two SanGuo movies, and they are amazing... that's all I can say about that. ChiBi (English name Red Cliff) is a must-watch film for any fan of the period... and has enough merits to avail itself even to the interests of the general viewing audience. In fact, it is coming to the U.S. in a condensed version in January... so I rather forcefully insist that you check it out... the legal version, of course... after all, someone has to support the artists!

I am loving my SanGuo collection... this disc will make for 15 good weekends... except that in my lack of patience I have already crammed four movies into one Friday night!

Teaching 201: Introduction to the Chinese Student





I am learning that 15-year olds are 15-year olds all over the world. When culture meddles in the business of biology, only the surface changes. Are Chinese students different than American students? Yes, of course. But what lies beneath all of them are the same needs, the same passions, the same struggles.






But there are distinguishable differences. Compared to American students...


+Chinese students are more polite.


+Chinese students are more respectful.


+Chinese students are more personal... (particularly with young foreign teachers)... they will ask for your telephone number, your QQ number; they will invite you to their homes and they will ask to be invited to your home; they will ask you all the personal questions--"are you married?", "how old are you?" "how much money is this school paying you each month?;" in short, they will ask to be treated as your friend.




-Chinese students are more passive... they don't volunteer easily


-Chinese students cheat often and cheat openly when playing games... they don't mind that their cheating nullifies all fun and purpose of the game.... they just want to win






Chinese students are also different because the education system is different.


-Students are in school all day; om they wake up at 5:00 or 5:30 to begin their day. Their final class dismisses at 10:10. Sometimes I see flashlights in the classrooms well past 11:00. I estimate that most students go to bed somewhere between 11 and 12.




-Chinese education system is exam-focused... in fact, exam centered. It appears to me that there is no such thing as "passing a class." They take frequent exams, but even these only serve to determine which class they will be placed in (the class with the "good" teacher or the class with the "bad" teacher?) and which school they will be placed in (the "key" school or the underperforming school?)... they don't get summative report cards... they don't get calls to parents... they don't get "held back" a year... For twelve years, they go to class each day, they take exams each month all in their drive toward the one and only test that truly matters: the university entrance exam. The teachers teach to the test; the students learn to the test (via rote memorization). As our Buckland trainer informed us, "China's public education system is one in which the very tip of the tail wags the dog."




-This exam changes the way students behave.


**They are tired... studying all day exhausts them even more than playing video games all night exhausts American students... and to be honest, I am not yet convinced that their style of studying is any more beneficial than playing video games anyways.




**Most of them are sponges, not thinkers... there are plenty of brilliant ones though, and they make my day!




**They are calculating machines... they are a good with numbers, equations, and calculations because they can memorize them (American students could learn a lesson here, for sure). But then there is so much deadweight! I recall, for example, a conversation with one of my Chinese students. I told him that when I was in high school, geography was one of my favorite subjects. He stared back at me with a look of disbelief and horror on his face. I then probed to find out what they studied in geography... he told me a sample question from the exam... "If it is 8:00 am in Beijing, what is the time in San Fransisco?" ... the horror was transplanted to my face...




**They become experts in the judgement of utility... they decide whether to listen to or ignore the teacher based on how well he can prepare them for the exam. If a teacher gives too many fishy answers or, heaven forbid, too many "I don't know" answers, the students will ignore the teacher. And then there is my situation. I teach oral English... I help them practice listening to and speaking English. Well, wouldn't you guess it, even the university entrance exam does not test spoken English (in all honesty, I understand; what a logistical nightmare that would be to assess the speach of a couple million students every year!), and their monthly preparation exams do not test listening comprehension either. So I teach two skills for which they are not tested. What use am I? As such, there are students who ignore me... sleep... text... do other homework... even when the lesson is very active. The novelty of being a waiguoren (foreigner) wears off rapidly, and then from there on out the foreign teachers must work hard to persuade students to get with the program. (special note: in reality, the students' judgement of utility is, like any 15-year old, characteristically short-sighted... they do not realize that strong oral English will improve their reading comprehension and writing proficiency... duh!)








The exam-focused education system takes its toll. But once the toll has been paid, the students are just like any other 15 year olds. They like to have fun... they love basketball, soccer, ping pong, video games, surfing the internet, singing, listening to music (outdated bubble gum pop notoriously included),WWE, Chinese chess... and they squeeze as much of these pleasures into their lives as they can when their week ends briefly from Saturday afternoon to Sunday afternoon...




I am as much inspired by my Chinese students as I am by my American students... when they're not unleashing their little havocs--and even somtimes when they are--young people are such a joy to be around!








Independence Day in October

In the United States, we celebrate our Independence Day on one day at the beginning of July... with red, white, and blue everywhere; with fancy fireworks; with a little charcoal and a grill!


In China, we celebrate our Independence Day on one WEEK at the beginning of October... with red and yellow everywhere; with explosive fireworks; and with TRAVEL. People from all over China take the opportunity of this "golden week" to visit places near and far. In fact, China's GuoQing Jie (国庆节) is as much a celebration of the country's independence as it is a celebration of all the varied cultures and landscapes of the motherland... and in this way, I also suggest that it is a subtle celebration of the ever-improving quality of the transportation system that fascilitates such mass travel!

Now I and the other foreign teachers had decided before we even left Xi'an in the beginning of September that we intended to return to Xi'an for GuoQing Jie vacation. We knew from the moment we entered the city walls that this was a place we could spend a week well. It was decided.




We returned to the XiangZi Men quarters and to the XiangziMen Youth Hostel. If you take out the magnifying glass, you can see the gate to the XiangziMen quarters to the right of the large hotel. This area is right next to the South Gate. In fact, I was standing on the South Gate to take this picture.







I took a bus from HuaiYa to MeiXian to Xi'an (no more than 2 hours). It was smooth. The cost was 35 yuan... roughly 6 US Dollars. It was easy to communicate with the conductors at each stop; they were friendly and tolerant of my slowness (not only in speaking, but also in counting the money). It was crowded, but not unbearable. My return bus ride home, honestly, was even easier. Now I did not encounter the train system this time around, but from what I heard from the other foreign teachers, it was not bad. The lines were longer, but there were seats available if you had the patience to wait. I can't speak for the airlines, either, but we did have two foreign teachers arrive by air even though they booked tickets at the last minute. On this round, I give a high thumbs up to the public transportation system of PR China. The final verdict won't be due, however, until I experience Spring Festival madness in January...





"Golden Week" Traffic...When 1.6 billion people travel, you have to wait just a little bit longer.



What a spectacular city! Xi'an is a feast for the eyes... and the tongue!









I don't want to bore you with the details of the vacation. We crammed in a lot of activites... but at a relaxed pace. It was perfect. To sum it up, we dabbled in a little of everything:




--dining: street vendors, hole-in-the-wall joints, fast food, fine dining... we had it all!



--shopping: the art of bargaining!



--Journey to the West: McDonalds, Dairy Queen, Subway, Walmart!


--site-seeing: Qin Dynasty Terracotta Warriors, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Muslim Quarters, Great Mosque, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, city wall, XiangZi Men temple


--relaxation: the vacation was perfect for sharing in each other's experiences so far... venting a little, laughing a lot... we stick together...





Xi'an is spectacular... BUT after five days, you realize it... all that is wonderful about Xi'an is just the yang to Xi'an's yin. Like any other place, Xi'an is a balance of good and bad. The bad? In Xi'an, we were constantly cheated... the "foreigner tax" is strictly enforced in a place with this many foreigners to exploit. Here are just a few examples:
--we went to a restaurant and were served only one of the five dishes we ordered for about 30 minutes before the remaining four dishes arrived. Nearby Chinese patrons who arrived AFTER us were served all their dishes before us. The waitress couldn't even bring the bottled water in a reasonable time! To add salt to the wounds, two of the dishes we ordered were entirely wrong.
--one of the foreign teachers stood in line to order Coca Cola from a vendor... as she watched all the other thirsty Chinese people pay 3 kuai for their bottle, she expected to pay 3 kuai too... nope, 10 kuai... price just went up...
--the worst experience of all of them: to keep the story simple, a nightclub DJ (whom we shall call the "Singapore Asshole") encouraged us to visit his nightclub on the promise of 5 kuai beers (very cheap!). Well, it turns out, when the bill arrived, that he never offered that... 10 kuai beers each round. After a long, heated argument with the nightclub owner (who was as condescending as can possibly be) and two threats--our threat to leave without paying and their threat to call the local police--we left at 10 kuai each, scammed and humiliated.



This is the notorious "Singapore Asshole" (above, center singing). Master of the art of singing and scamming. If you are ever in Xi'an in the nightclub district, avoid this snake enterpreneur.


Oh well, you take the good with the bad in life. Savor the good. "Mei guanxi" the bad! That is my attitude... :-)

Xi'an is a spectacular city, and we enjoyed a spectacular vacation that was just long enough to make me glad to return to HuaiYa. Smiles all the way around... How can I possibly complain?




Teaching 101: Introduction to the Chinese Classroom




Lesson 1: There are MANY students... and very little room to put them...the classrooms are small and the Great Wall of Textbooks takes up half the available space. Each of my classes has between 70 and 80 students. Even sardines have more wiggle room.










Lesson 2: Students are accustomed to passive learning. Even raising their hands to answer--or, heaven forbid, to ask--a question is unusual and uncomfortable. But they'll get out of their seats to take a picture, of course.











Supplementary Material
Item 1--Students inhabit the classroom. They stay in the same classroom all day; it is the teacher who moves from classroom to classroom. The students prepare the classrooom for each teacher's entrance. The students clean each teacher's mess when the teacher leaves. The students sweep and mop the classroom daily.

Item 2--Chinese high schools have three grades: Grade 1, Grade 2, and Grade 3. Within each grade, there is a ranking of classrooms. Generally speaking, the best students (best = highest performance on exams) are all in the lower-numbered classrooms. I teach all twelve classes of the Grade 1 students and four classes of the "best" Grade 2 students. I also have three English corners each week.

Item 3--Chinese high schools rely heavily on the textbook... I do what I can with it.

Welcome to the Chinese classroom!

HuaiYa is Home

Downtown HuaiYa () at Autumn's Threshold


The Yellow River of Corn trickles into the Streets


A Flood that brings Feast!


HuaiYa Main Street




In the cities there is "fine dining"...

And then in the small towns there is "finest dining!"

This is my hole-in-the-wall heaven:

**amazing food, heart-warming service, dirt prices**

the noodle magician of HuaiYa at her craft (above)